be a critical researcher: a follow up post on "going nuts over soap"


Over the holidays, I've been working on a research paper regarding toxic chemicals in household products.  Based on some of the research and analysis I've done, I've decided to publish a follow up post to my previous "going nuts over soap". 

The database I focused on in my post is called "Think Dirty", a mobile app you use on your smart phone to scan the barcode of the product in question, and it spits out a toxicity level based on various criteria.  I've recently learned that there are two other similar databases available and it's become clear that all three databases use different criteria in assessing toxicity levels of products.  Below is a compare/contrast of what I've found regarding the following three databases: Environmental Working Group'sSkin Deep Cosmetics Database, the Good Guide, and Think Dirty.  I hope you will find it helpful.

Skin Deep’s rating criteria is a based on a dual rating system.  First, a hazard rating, which considers known and suspected hazards associated with ingredients and products and implies a level of ‘concern’.  A rating of 0-2 indicates a low hazard score, 3-6 moderate, and 7-10 high.  The second system is the data availability rating, which is meant to reflect how much is known (or not known) about an ingredient.  In cases where data is limited on a product and its ingredients, it will indicate so.

Good Guide has recently (2011) made changes to their product ratings, and now uses a ‘transparency rating’ system.  Their system provides an overall rating taking into consideration health concerns as well as environmental and social impacts of the products and the companies that manufacture them.  Similar to the Skin Deep site, it uses a rating scale of 1-10, 10 being no concern, and 0 being a high concern.  

The “Think Dirty” App is relatively new (2013) and also uses a scale: 0-2 being no negative health impact, 3-6 moderate negative long-term health effects, and 7-10 potentially serious negative long-term health effects.  Interestingly, Think Dirty does not take into consideration the environmental and social responsibility of a product’s manufacturer.  Rather, their system only considers the potential impact on an individual’s health. 

As I began the research for my paper, I quickly noticed that there were other notable differences between each of databases, not just in their rating systems, but also in the accuracy and availability of product information.  For example, when I looked up the above-noted Aveda product “Botanical Kinetics Purifying Gel Cleanser” and compared the ingredients on my physical products to those listed on the Think Dirty App, it showed ingredients that are not listed on the physical product and gave it toxicity rating of 10 (the highest possible rating).  

The Good Guide database ingredients list was more accurate, but still appears to be out of date.  It gave the cleanser a product a rating of 5.5 (a moderate level).  Given that these two databases use a different methodology, it is not surprising that the ratings are different; however, it’s difficult to know for sure when the ingredients are not accurate on either site.  Interestingly, on the Good Guide’s ingredients listing, it notes to ‘check the package for the most up to date ingredients’.  

I've since emailed Think Dirty and asked them to update their ingredient listing for three Aveda products, given that it's very possible that an up to date ingredients list will result in a lower toxicity rating.This is a very good reminder to look closely and carefully at more than one source.  It’s also a good reminder that ‘one answer is not always best’.  Is it important to take into consideration what product’s manufacturers are doing (or not doing) for the environment?  Personally, I think so.  However, it’s also equally important to know what level of risk the products we use pose to our long-term health.  It is also important to rely on the most accurate and up to date product information.  With the recent increase in social interest and concern over the use of toxic chemicals, many companies are making efforts to change their product ingredients and seek out alternatives, resulting in changes in product ingredients from time to time.  Aveda is actually one such company who has very recently stopped manufacturing products with parabens.  

Perhaps the best we can do is to educate ourselves on each of the ingredients, and make an informed decision balancing the potential health effects as well as the impact on the environment. 

be a critical thinker,
xo

"Be aware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance." (George Bernard Shaw)

going nuts over soap

As biochemistry comes to an end, I'm gearing up for our next course: Nutrition and the Environment.  And, I'm wondering whether by the end of it, I'll be camping in our backyard, wearing burlap and eating grass.  Stay tuned.

It can be really tough (and even upsetting) to find out that some of our favourite products, be it house cleaning, laundry detergents or personal hygiene products are not only harming our bodies, they're also harming the environment.  Recently I downloaded an App called "Think Dirty" (available on iTunes) and it allows you to scan the bar code on different hygiene products and then it spits out its toxicity levels.  It rates the product on a scale of neutral to dirty, considering its carcinogenicity, developmental & reproductive toxicity, and allergies and immunotoxicities.   It also lists the ingredients as well as suggests "cleaner options".  I had some fun with it today in Whole Foods, sourcing out a new deodorant.    Both the Tom's and Kiss My Face brands rated 10 out of 10 and 9 out of 10 respectively for toxicity.  I was so surprised!  Both are just as toxic as the Dove brand.  So I settled on Desert Essence, which only rated 3, which is the higher end on the neutral scale.  Green Beaver deodorant also had a rating of 3.  There are lots of products not in the App's database yet, and it gives you the option to add it yourself.  

I've been a huge fan of Aveda and MAC cosmetics for years, and both company's products contain highly toxic ingredients.  It just goes to show you how marketing can be misleading: Aveda markets itself as 'plant science' brand.  When I used the Think Dirty App to scan the barcode, I learned that my cleanser, tonic and lotion all rated 9 or 10 for toxicity.  Sad face!! 

Recently I learned from my sister-in-law about a company called NaturOli, an online retailer and developer of soap nuts. Soap nuts?  Soap nuts.  So, what are they and why do we care?  Their website has plenty of information which I'll attempt to briefly summarize.  Basically, in a nutshell (sorry, couldn't resist), soap nuts are the dried husks/shells from the soap berry nut.  Soap berries are the fruit from a unique tree species and the shells contain saponin, a substance that produces a soaping effect. Saponin is a 100% natural alternative to chemical laundry detergent and cleansers.  Soap nuts have been used for centuries throughout numerous countries in the Eastern hemisphere (especially in India and Europe) as a laundry detergent, soap for personal hygiene, and as a multi-purpose cleanser.  Soap berries are a sustainable agriculture and forest product, the highest quality of which grow in areas of northern India and Nepal.  At harvest, the seed is removed from the shell and the shells are dried in the sun using absolutely no chemical processing. No commercial manufacturing processes are required in any way for the soap nut to become effective. The soap nut shell is not altered in any way. Therefore, soap nuts are 100% natural and unmodified.

How do they work: the shell contains and releases the saponins (soap) when it comes in contact with water.  Agitation further releases these saponins. The saponins then circulate as a natural surfactant (surface active ingredient). They break down the surface tension between water and oil in the wash water reducing the surface tension of the water which assists it in freeing dirt and oils. And it does all of this, sans chemicals.  Huge benefit!  A few other benefits of using soapnuts: they have antimicrobial and natural anti-fungal properties, they are hypoallergenic (most allergic reactions to detergents are caused the chemicals and fragrances in them), they are mild and gentle on fabric and colors, they are low sudsing, which is especially great for high efficiency (HE) washers.

So, I purchased a trial kit online of their liquid soap nut 18X concentrate which can be used as a laundry detergent or general house cleaner.  The amount you see in the mason jar should get us 60 loads!  I also got a few trial sized shampoos to try.  My sister-in-law recommends boosting with Borax, which I will play around with depending on dirt levels.  There's a lot of mixed opinions out there about the pro's and con's of Borax; I'm hoping to learn more about it in our next course.

The Soap Dispensary in Vancouver is a wonderful spot for all your natural soap needs.  They also carry soap nuts sourced from India and distributed by a company called Eaternal. Unfortunately, they don't carry it in the convenient liquid form but you can buy the nuts or a powdered form (which is a great alternative to Comet cleanser).  I'm curious to give the actual nuts a try, check out the instructions here.

It can be overwhelming to realize that the products we know and love might be causing harm to our bodies and the planet.  The good news is, once we have the information, we have a choice in whether we want to make the changes or not, as well as how quickly we want to make them.  I encourage you to stay really curious about the products you're using and what kind of carbon footprint they're leaving behind.  Exercise your right to critically think.  I'm excited for the course (and admittedly a little nervous about learning all the 'bad' news!) and I am looking forward to making some more changes around our home, over time.

go nuts,
xo