I've recently written a research paper on three
different chemicals found in day to day personal care products. I found
the information available on the ingredient 'fragrance' to be the most
concerning. In the interest of spreading awareness, I am sharing with
you, friends, my research. I discuss both the health and environmental effects of this ingredient, as well as provide some practical
recommendations. Buckle in.
Due to
manufacturers protecting trade secrets and a lack of knowledge and research on
the toxicity of many thousands of chemicals that fall under the umbrella of
“fragrance”, this ingredient is arguably the one we should be the most
concerned about. The true effects of these chemical compounds on our bodies
and the environment are largely unclear.
Take a look around your
home, and you will find that fragrance, a.k.a. parfum, is an ingredient listed in
just about everything from deodorant to laundry detergent. Even
more alarming, according to the David Suzuki Foundation: “Even products marketed
as ‘fragrance-free’ or ‘unscented’ may in fact contain fragrance along with a
masking agent that prevents the brain from perceiving
odour.” Further, some fragrance ingredients are not actually
perfuming agents; rather they are included to enhance the performance of
perfuming agents.
The David Suzuki
Foundation also reports that approximately 3,000 chemicals fall under the term
“fragrance” or “parfum”. If the ingredient appears on a cosmetic
ingredients list, it most likely represents a complex mixture of dozens of such
chemicals. Perhaps the greatest concern is that not only have many
of the ingredients not been tested for toxicity, but certain fragrance recipes
are considered by manufacturers to be trade secrets and are therefore not
required to disclose the list of ingredients. Certain studies
suggest that many of these unlisted ingredients can trigger migraines and
allergies as well as exacerbate and cause respiratory symptoms in
asthmatics. In laboratory experiments, adverse health effects such
as cancer and neurotoxicity have reportedly been associated with fragrance
ingredients. Environmental Defence published a report after analyzing 17 name-brand
colognes and perfumes and identifying 38 “secret chemicals” i.e. not listed on
the product, finding an average of 14 such chemicals per product. The
report found that among these chemicals are those that can trigger allergic
reactions or interfere with hormone function.
As the trend goes, the
regulatory practices in the European Union are far stronger than here in North
America. The David Suzuki Foundation reports that regulations were
recently announced by Health Canada banning six phthalates, including DEP (used
to make scent linger) in children’s toys; however, the use of DEP in cosmetics
is unrestricted. Further, the European Union restricts the use of
two common “nitromusks”, as well as many other fragrance ingredients. Warning
labels on products are required on any products that contain any of the 26
commonly used allergens used as cosmetic fragrances.
Environmental Working Group rates the
overall hazard of fragrance in between moderate and high (eight out of ten),
with an above moderate rating for allergies and immunotoxicity. Good Guide rates fragrance as a
“controversial ingredient”, noting it is the subject of debate. It
states the concern that some fragrance compounds are respiratory irritants or
allergens. It also acknowledges that few companies disclose the
specific ingredients used in their products and notes that some commit to
not using potentially hazardous ingredients. What is most alarming
about Good Guide’s rating of fragrance is its statement that “Because the
evidence of hazard is inconclusive, this ingredient does not contribute to
product scores.”
In terms of the effects
on the environment, the “synthetic musks” used in fragrances are definitely a
concern. The David Suzuki Foundation reports that studies show that
these chemical compounds are bio-accumulating in the fatty tissues of aquatic
life and increasing levels of sediment in the Great Lakes. It comes
as no surprise then that Environment Canada has classified several of these
musks as toxic and human health priorities and is currently assessing
“moskene”, a synthetic musk, under the aforementioned Chemicals Management
Plan. They’ve also flagged several others for future
assessment. Given that we know these chemical compounds are
bio-accumulating in aquatic organisms and environments, coupled with the fact
that we largely remain under a veil as to the true effects these chemical
compounds have, it is clear that care should be taken in both the production
and disposal of these chemical compounds in order to protect our ecosystems.
Until further and
focused research is conducted and assessments made about the toxicity levels of
these chemical compounds, and until manufacturers are committed to using only non-hazardous
ingredients in their products, it’s fair to say that we are putting our health,
and the environment, at risk when using products containing this
ingredient.
So, what can we do? Especially when we can't trust that 'unscented' products are safe? Well, we can avoid these products that boast 'fragrance free' or 'unscented' and try to search out products that are scented with essential oils. Or, consider making some of our own products! There are so many recipes available online for making your own deodorants and shampoos. We can shop at local farmer's markets and craft fairs, and talk to the artisans who spend their blood, sweat and tears making personal care products like soaps and lotions that aren't harmful. As always, the best approach is to get really curious, ask questions, consult multiple sources, critically assess available information, taking into account the methodologies used, and goshdarnit, demand some answers.
ignorance is not bliss,
xo
PS next up? Parabens!
